The Gospel of John

You may have noticed a new page in the header bar.  Or not.  Hell, you may not have ever noticed the header bar itself.  Anyway…

XYZ is a new section on she eats.  I’m not going to say how often it will be updated, because it’s not up to me.

Why is it called XYZ?  Because it’s random odds and ends, things that are perhaps interesting but ultimately useless in Scrabble.

Just go check it out for yourself…

VOICE, A Prelude

This is not a review of VOICE.  Not yet, at least.

Aside from the little issue of trying to forcibly extract the evening’s photos from my camera as it groans and bleats and emits tiny, rasping death rattles, I simply can’t be unbiased about the restaurant.  Which is unusual.

I’m a pretty unbiased person by nature.  Even when I start feeling twinges of favoritism towards a person or object or food or beverage, I always remind myself that I will lose out, ultimately, in a game of favorites, since it tends to close one off to the rest of life’s possibilities.  I enjoy playing Devil’s advocate.  Some call it arguing; I call it “seeing all sides.”  I think you get it.

But we were so terribly spoiled and pampered at VOICE last night — in the absolute best, most non-pandering, non-grating, non-superficial way — that I have no idea how to write a “review” that isn’t tinted with an overly rosy glow.  I feel like it would read as if I were a 13-year-old, gushing about her first crush.  I’m going to take all of this into consideration for a while, and will hopefully emerge with a post that isn’t obscured by my feelings towards the place.

That said, however, our experience last night was unparalleled.  The warm service, the endlessly beautiful interiors, the voluptuous wines and expert pairings, the visits from Chef Kramer and his keen crew, the heavenly amuse bouche, the dusky mushroom soup, the tender and submissive short ribs, the exotic five-spice ice cream, the creative cocktails and clever platings — everything was wonderful.

You see how this could quickly devolve into a love letter to VOICE, right?  Let me put some restraints on, and I’ll hopefully be back tomorrow with an even-handed (albeit highly positive) review.  See you then…

Image courtesy of

The Modern B&B

Are you busy next Tuesday?  No?  Good!  Because Randy is serving up a menu in honor of “The Modern B&B,” which is sure to knock your little socks off.

As with past tenacity supper club dinners, this multi-course tasting menu features fresh, local, seasonal ingredients, including a divine-sounding selection of Houston Dairymaid cheeses.  What else is up for grabs?  Glad you asked…

  • Yellowmouth scamp cured in cucumber “hooch”,  persimmon vinegar and nasturtium (I’m assuming this is either Yellowmouth grouper or scamp; they’re very similar to each other — or perhaps Randy is conducting some illegal fish-breeding experiments at home…)
  • Barely-cooked Gulf shrimp, red cabbage gazpacho, crunchy savory meringues and golden raisins
  • Terrine of game birds, caramelized miso, crispy skin(s) and tiny blue basil
  • Warm abalone, soft egg, bacon crumble and flowering herbs
  • Garden squash and onions, fresh thyme, shaved tongue and rye gnocchi
  • Composition of cheese via Houston Dairymaids
  • Sesame financier, roasted banana puree and yuzu curd

This may be the best-sounding menu that Randy has compiled to date.  Personally, the terrine of game birds made my heart skip a beat, while the garden squash and onions with shaved tongue are utterly intriguing.  I haven’t been able to make it out to a tenacity dinner in a while, but you can bet I won’t be missing this one.

As always, reservations can be made by emailing Randy at rrucker79 at hotmail dot com.  The dinner itself will be hosted at — appropriately enough — The Modern B&B, which is exactly what it sounds like: a modern bed and breakfast located in the Museum District, which just happens to serve tasty, organic breakfasts for their guests.

Hope to see your smiling faces there!